Food

Ardeo

An airy neighborhood spot for inventive, modern American cooking.

At this Modern American dining room, starters have included seared sea scallops, perfectly cooked and served with pea risotto, fresh chanterelles, and a truffle vinaigrette. Steamed mussels are delicious in their garlic herb broth. Fried calamari were a bit tough, but the accompanying lemon aïoli was a nice alternative to the usual tomato dipping sauce.

The kitchen will serve half orders of pasta as a first course–the linguine with peas, cream, and soppresatta was very good. Main courses have been a bit less dependable–a too-sweet maple-brined pork chop with peaches; overcooked cod with a delicious brandade of salt cod; a good roast duck breast with confit; and a tough grilled New York strip. The best dessert was a fresh cherry financier with whipped crème fraîche.

Service at a restaurant with these ambitions and prices should rise above the "Now, who had the cod?" level.

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