Food

C.F. Folks

A weekday lunch counter with international accents.

From May 2002

It's not surprising to find meatloaf and mashed potatoes on the handwritten list of specials behind the counter of this diner-like restaurant next to the Palm. But just below the meatloaf was an unexpected Rustic Salad: frisée with pancetta and confit of turkey gizzards, bathed in a warm, vinegary dressing, topped with a poached egg, and accompanied by croutons spread with goat cheese–a dish straight out of the French countryside. It's the sort of surprise that gives C.F. Folks a lunchtime following of people who don't mind sitting at the counter or carrying food to one of the tables indoors or out.

Along with the usual lunchtime lineup of sandwiches and salads, wisecracking owner Art Carlson posts five specials around a daily theme: Monday, Louisiana; Tuesday, Mexican or Tex-Mex; Wednesday, Italian and Indian; Thursday, American Regional; and Friday, the Middle East. The quality of the cooking is superior to what you could pay twice as much for at places nearby–and the turkey gizzards were terrific.

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