From February 2005 Dirt Cheap Eats
This kosher-style deli in the middle of the suburbs calls itself "a real New York deli"–and backs up the claim. Sandwiches are overstuffed with piping hot brisket, pastrami, and corned beef. The menu warns not to "embarrass yourself and ask for mayonnaise" on corned beef and pastrami, but you can't go wrong by requesting coleslaw and Russian dressing.
The chicken noodle soup with kreplach ($3.95) is as good as a Jewish mother's. The Mendel, a tuna melt ($7.95), is better than the New York original and is served with crispy fries. Traditional Jewish sides such as knishes, kasha varnishka, and kugel range from $1.25 to $4.95. Desserts like rugalach, chocolate babka, and "real New York cheesecake" are $2.50 to $3.25, egg creams $1.95.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
