An airy dining room that serves updated French classics.

From January 2005 100 Very Best Restaurants

Baby boomers make up the base of Jean-Michel's clientele, but more and more Gen-X couples are also discovering the pleasures of Jean-Michel Farret's airy, salmon-and-beige dining room, where classics coexist with more modern takes.

Start with the marvelous cream of corn with crab soup or the pistou, a puréed vegetable soup with a dollop of pesto. Or consider mussels mariniéres or the house pâté. Tuna carpaccio and ravioli with julienned duck breast and chives are more-modern appetizers. Entrées include such robust fare as venison with chestnut purée and cranberry jelly; roast duckling with raspberry sauce; and New York strip with red wine and shallots. Lighter but no less delicious are seafood offerings like salmon with butter parsley sauce, whole lobster flamed with whiskey, and an occasional special of airy quenelles. Heavenly desserts range from apple tart with house-made caramel ice cream to raspberry soufflé.