Matamoros Restaurant

From June 2005 Cheap Eats

A low-key bar and convivial dining room give this Latin-Tex-Mex eatery an easygoing vibe. On the Tex-Mex side of things, standouts are chunky guacamole, Texas-style all-meat chili, cumin-rubbed pork ribs, and fajitas. As in many Latin restaurants, skirt steak is a major player. Have it with fried eggs, plantains, and refried beans in a platter called El Campesino, meant for one, but really enough for two.

Smaller appetites can go for the nicely turned out pan-fried snapper with olives. And the kids will love pupusas–pockets of crispy dough with fillings of pork and cheese or squash. Spanish-English karaoke draws Latin crowds on weekends, but most of the time Matamoros is a neighborhood scene with couples and families sharing generous plates of food.