This Thai restaurant is the less elegant sibling of Duangrat's. With the same owner and a stone's throw away, Rabieng has bamboo placemats instead of Duangrat's white tablecloths. The food and prices are consistent with the decor. Rabieng offers the regional cooking of Thailand's provinces. Most of the main courses are under $9, including beef and pork, and many seafood dishes, including shrimp, are under $11.

Among the excellent appetizers are Tidbit, a crispy rice cake with a coconut pork dip; a salad of fried marinated beef strips with Thai hot sauce; and mee grob, thin rice noodles flavored with sweet-and-sour tamarind syrup and garnished with shrimp. One of the moderately spicy salads based on grilled beef, chopped chicken, or grilled shrimp is another good way to start. So is a salad of green papaya tossed with shrimp and spiced chili lime juice. Pleasing main courses are spicy southern Satoh shrimp sautéed with chili paste, peas, and beans; Northeastern curry chicken in green-curry sauce with Japanese eggplant, bamboo shoots, green beans, mushrooms, and basil; Esan grilled chicken or quail marinated in Thai herbs and served with a pair of sauces and sticky rice; and garlic shrimp. There is also a Thai dim sum brunch on weekends.

Rabieng, 5892 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church; 703-671-4222.