June 2005

Sister restaurant to the all-vegetarian Udupi Palace a couple of doors away, Tiffin shares a few dishes with its sibling, including the searing yet delicious bharwaan baigan curry made with Asian eggplants. (Neither restaurant stints on spice). Kadai chicken, goat curry, and dosas filled with potato and onion are among the five-alarm plates worth ordering.

The skinless tandoori chicken and a toss of puffed rice, potatoes, yogurt, and sweet-sour tamarind are milder standouts. And of course there are the breads, which are best ordered hot from the oven; the wedges on the buffet are okay, but tandoori breads are meant to be eaten piping hot. Beer, lassis, and a house-made lemon soda are available to quench fires. So is kulfi, India's rich-as-the-Raj answer to ice cream.