Mannequin Pis

A snug, artsy place for hearty Belgian cooking.

From January 2006 100 Very Best Restaurants

THE SCENE. Yes, the strip-mall setting is unprepossessing, and yes, the small dining room isn't much to look at, but fans of Belgian food and beer are devoted to Bernard Dehaene's place–as well they should be. Such simple pleasures as these are hard to come by.

WHAT YOU'LL LOVE. Hearty Belgian cooking–with more than 55 Belgian beers to choose from–in a casual atmosphere.

WHAT YOU WON'T. The tables are close together, so if the couple next to you is having a bad date, you're going to hear about it. And brace yourself for the occasional lengthy, unexplained lapse in service.

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