New Fortune

Dim sum is the meal of choice here, as the flurry of carts bearing dumplings, noodles, and roasted meats will attest. Beef chow foon, soy-braised eggplant, pork dumplings, skinless roast duck, salt-and-pepper shrimp, chicken feet, and crabs with black-bean sauce are all fine choices. Pacing is everything–as is knowing when to say no. How many different kinds of dumplings can you eat in one sitting?

There's a menu beyond dim sum, too: Black-pepper pork chops, soy-sauce squab, Peking duck, and steamed shrimp in lotus leaves are all winners. Delicacies like sea cucumber, fish maw, and abalone–acquired tastes for most Westerners–abound. On a few visits for dinner, banquets for large groups were in full swing, making the room noisy and the experience less pleasant than usual.

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