Food

Cheap Eats 2007: El Pike (Pike Pizza)

Videos of gyrating women in sequined G-strings fill the overhead TV, but don’t let that fool you: This is a family joint, Bolivian-style, with old men at the counter reading Spanish-language newspapers and little kids playing between tables.

The sign outside reads pike pizza, but the only pies here are salteñas, sweet-spicy meat pastries eaten for breakfast or lunch. Grainy humitas (corn pudding steamed in the husk) are a terrific alternative at night. Spice-rubbed beef called laping chews like jerky and will appeal to diners who like a little gaminess. Cumin-fried pork chops are perfectly matched with a crisp Bolivian Pacena beer.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.

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