It has the sound of an indie band, but Burmese Farluda is a dessert—and a spectacular one at that. Ice cream, shredded coconut, pistachios, pudding, and thin noodles are layered parfait-style. It’s reason enough to check out this appealing Loudoun County restaurant done up with ornate tapestries and hand-painted tableware.
The expansive menu offers lots of other reasons, from crisp split-pea fritters flecked with parsley and onion to a pair of marvelous pork dishes, one with fresh mango, the other a fatty slab of pork belly stir-fried with cilantro, scallions, and red chilies. In between are quieter plates: a salad of shredded pickled ginger studded with sesame seeds and dried broad beans (reminiscent of wasabi peas without the heat); a gingery stew of shrimp and fresh pumpkin; and simple chicken cooked in coconut cream to be ladled over rice or noodles.
And to finish, that farluda.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
