Food

Cheap Eats 2007: Taste of Burma

It has the sound of an indie band, but Burmese Farluda is a dessert—and a spectacular one at that. Ice cream, shredded coconut, pistachios, pudding, and thin noodles are layered parfait-style. It’s reason enough to check out this appealing Loudoun County restaurant done up with ornate tapestries and hand-painted tableware.

The expansive menu offers lots of other reasons, from crisp split-pea fritters flecked with parsley and onion to a pair of marvelous pork dishes, one with fresh mango, the other a fatty slab of pork belly stir-fried with cilantro, scallions, and red chilies. In between are quieter plates: a salad of shredded pickled ginger studded with sesame seeds and dried broad beans (reminiscent of wasabi peas without the heat); a gingery stew of shrimp and fresh pumpkin; and simple chicken cooked in coconut cream to be ladled over rice or noodles.

And to finish, that farluda.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.