Cuisine: Regional and microregional tidbits and antipasti at Peter Pastan’s love letter to Italy have all but eclipsed the original concept of authentic Neapolitan wood-oven pizza with arcane toppers.
Mood: Abuzz with conversation and the squeals of children, it’s as raucous and loud downstairs as ever. But the new dining room upstairs is decibels lower thanks to an unofficial no-kids policy.
Best for: Foodie parents of young kids.
Best dishes: Crinkly oven-roasted olives; fava-bean crostini drizzled with fruity olive oil; crisp zucchini-and-prosciutto croquettes; earthy cranberry beans with pungent house-cured mackerel bottarga and chives; deviled eggs with spicy green sauce; salumeri and cheese plates, especially the boar cacciatorini, prosciutto di San Daniele, and lomo; Margherita pizza; Etna pizza with eggplant confit and capers; silky Marsala custard; house-made ice creams and sorbets; minni di virgini with fiore di latte ice cream and a glass of Moscato from Pantelleria.
Insider tips: The menu has too many gems to focus solely on the pizza. The place doesn’t take reservations and can be frenetic from 6 to 8 on weeknights and weekends, so try to time dinner accordingly.