The Needle: Ceiba

The mojitos are still some of the city’s best—strong and not too sweet—but much of the cooking at this Central and South American eatery, part of the Passion Food group (DC Coast, TenPenh, Acadiana), has lost its focus. On a recent visit, muddy flavors, bland sauces, and overcooked seafood upended nearly every plate. Portions are still generous, and both cocktails and desserts are carried off with flair, which may be why the place draws a noisy crowd before a ballgame or play.

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