Jazz piano pours from the sound system in this dining room known for such creatively fashioned rolls as catapila—stuffed with eel, draped with avocado, and fanned out like a caterpillar. Beyond the usual sushi and sashimi are offbeat finds including chawan mushi, a delicious soupy custard with seafood, and thin slices of white-tuna tataki with miso.
-March, 2008