Whitewashed dining rooms with accents of Aegean blue hint at an island idyll even if you’re a stone’s throw from Rockville Pike. Have an ouzo and share a round of mezze—airy taramosalata, brittle-crusted fried kefalograviera cheese, smoky eggplant melitzanosalata. You can make a meal of the little plates or move on to more substantial ones like the dewy whole fish with olive oil and lemon or the unconventional moussaka.
-March, 2008