Why go: For the only area Neapolitan-style pizzas bearing DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) certification—in other words, blessed by the Italian government. The pies are as good as they are official, thanks to a yeasty crust, creamy top-notch mozzarella, and gorgeous seasonal veggies. The simple salumeri plates featuring house-cured meats and garden-fresh elements embody the rustic Italian ideal of “less is more.”
What to get: Anything on the specials menu, which recently included a pizza topped with fresh sausage, tomato purée, fontina cheese, and “hotties and sweeties” (peppers); Vongole pizza, with cockles in the shell; Abruzzese pizza, with meatballs and thinly sliced garlic; seasonal, house-churned ice creams, which might be the best in the area.
Best for: Those who crave the simplicity and exuberance of great Italian cooking.
Insider tip: Arrive for dinner around 6 and you can avoid the usual 45-minute wait—but be prepared for Toddlerville.
Open Monday for dinner, Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner.
See all Cheap Eats 2008 restaurants
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
