Food

Cheap Eats 2008: Oohhs & Aahhs

Why go: In a town where great soul food is scarce, this lunch counter/takeout dishes up mouthwatering Southern standards, from fried chicken to collards, in generous portions.

What to get: Batter-fried chicken wings and boneless breasts; well-seasoned beef or turkey meatloaf with a pale golden gravy; Cajun turkey “chop,” a pounded-thin portion of rib meat doused in spices and deep-fried; a mildly spicy broiled whiting that refutes the notion that all great soul food is fried; cinnamony candied yams; cornbread; super-cheesy mac and cheese—no Velveeta here.

Best for: Satisfying comfort-food cravings; takeout for a crowd or picnic.

Insider tip: The fried chicken wings and waffles on the postmidnight menu hit the spot after a U Street pub crawl.

Open Tuesday through Saturday for lunch and dinner.

See all Cheap Eats 2008 restaurants 

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.