Cheap Eats 2008: Pizzeria Paradiso – Dupont Circle

Why go: This grande dame of the gourmet pie, launched nearly two decades ago, has suffered a talent drain of late, as several cooks have decamped to open their own wood-fired spots. But the old girl, though a touch inconsistent, is still capable of churning out delectable pizzas smothered with creamy mozzarella and finished with a dash of olive oil.

What to get: The Bottarga pizza, decked out with mullet roe, Parmesan, and sunny-side-up egg; the Atomica, with zesty salami and hot-pepper flakes; the classic tomato-mozzarella-and-basil-topped Margherita; tuna-and-white-bean salad; baked Marsala-soaked pears with a dollop of fresh whipped cream.

Best for: A classy take on pizza and beer—the Georgetown location houses the magnificent Birerria Paradiso, one of the best pubs in the region, with more than 80 bottled beers and 16 brews on draft.

Insider tip: The kitchen, says owner Ruth Gresser, is happy to customize your crust—more crispy or more chewy—provided you tell the server when you order.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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