Food

Cheap Eats 2008: El Pollo Rico (Arlington)

Why go: Who cares if the plates are Styrofoam, the utensils are plastic, and the only attempt at jazzing up the atmosphere at this Ballston polleria is a staticky radio tuned to easy listening? You’re here for the Peruvian-style chicken, one bite of which will grab your attention.

What to get: Spice-crusted, spit-roasted chicken—so moist and tender that you barely need a knife—hacked into quarters or halves or served whole and accompanied by a mild mayo sauce and a piquant salsa of crushed jalapeños. Steak fries and coleslaw, the only other offerings on the menu, are just so-so.

Best for: A satisfying meal at lightning speed—the cashier will have your plate assembled in less than 30 seconds; taking the chicken to go and making your own sides.

Insider tip: El Pollo Rico’s Wheaton twin, destroyed by fire in February, is expected to reopen in the fall.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

See all 2008 Cheap Eats restaurants 

Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.