Cheap Eats 2008: Fortune

Why go: More than six dozen dim sum dishes turned out by a kitchen that rarely has a bad day. The dim sum is delivered via metal carts that zip around the large dining room at NASCAR speeds. (The rest of the menu, with its many budget-busting seafood dishes, is too expensive for Cheap Eats—and ordinary besides.)

What to get: Mushrooms and sticky rice wrapped in a lotus leaf; sweet, pan-fried turnip cake; any of the steamed, baked, or puff-pastry buns stuffed with barbecue pork; clams with black-bean sauce and jalapeño slices; chive-and-shrimp dumpling.

Best for: A leisurely brunch.

Insider tip: Weekends are a madhouse. To avoid it, drop by weekdays from 11 to 3 for a less frenzied dim sum experience.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

See all 2008 Cheap Eats restaurants

Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.