Bed and Beauty

Lots of big resorts have nice spas. Now cozy inns are getting in on the act.

“We need a couple of these chairs for ourselves,” Dennis said, leaning into a heated, whirring recliner as his feet soaked in its mini–hot tub.

We were getting a couple’s pedicure at the Inn & Spa at Intercourse Village, in Amish country just west of Lancaster, Pennsylvania, and roughly two hours north of Washington. Before this were 60-minute side-by-side massages. After would come lunch at the inn next door. We were blissed out.

And all that before our overnight stay, in a room with a gas fireplace and jetted bathtub. Thanks to our spa indulgence, plus an afternoon of browsing Kitchen Kettle Village shops across the street and then dinner out, we slept soundly until breakfast. Worth getting up for, it included oatmeal with cinnamon and strawberries, sausage, fruit, cereal, and pineapple/coconut/sour-cream cake.

The inn’s eight-year-old suites beat the main-house rooms, but layout and appeal vary; premium “grand suites” are spacious with full Jacuzzi, while our “country homestead suite” felt a bit cramped. And I’d gladly have traded the bedside chocolate for a fluffy robe to curl up in.

The Serenity for Two package adds $319 (plus tip) to the cost of whatever room you choose. Unlike many B&Bs, this one doesn’t require a two-night stay most weekends, so, if careful, you can pull off two days of pampering and play for about $500. That’s a bargain, especially with such a terrific spa.

It’s smart to book both room and spa time ahead: Although this is presented as one package, they are booked separately, and, if you wait, spa treatments may not be available for the day you choose.

The Inn & Spa at Intercourse Village, Intercourse, Pa.; 800-664-0949; Rooms $159 to $399 including breakfast.

This article first appeared in the September 2007 issue of The Washingtonian.