Food

The Needle: Black’s Bar and Kitchen

The slick interior is a set piece of LA cool. But has style superseded substance? A recent visit was marred by sloppy execution, beginning with a crab cake so flavorless that it might have been a chicken patty and ending with a plate of monkfish so uninspired as to engender fantasies of a burger from Houston’s across the street. Janelle Birdsall’s desserts were excellent. Too bad she recently left the restaurant.

This review appeared in the August, 2008 issue of The Washingtonian.  

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.

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