The dining room is as featureless as a law firm’s conference room. And surrounded by so much talk of deals, a leisurely lunch can feel like business. But chef Massimo Fabbri has the kitchen humming with purpose and invention. Take a recent plate of carrot pappardelle with a ragu of minced rabbit and thyme—the sort of concoction chefs are wont to highlight with a self-consciously clever menu description. While such dishes can be more interesting to talk about than to eat, this one eats better than it reads. A half portion (at half price!) at the bar, washed down with a good glass of Italian red from an excellent list, is one of the best lunches in town.
This review appeared in the September, 2008 issue of The Washingtonian.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
