The eclectic decor—velvet curtains and gas lamps—has nothing on chef Tony Chittum’s wild ride of a menu. On a recent visit, seared scallops paired well with a panzanella salad made from Parker House rolls, a lamb kebab got a boost from Greek yogurt dotted with feta, and a medley of pulled pork and barbecue pork loin had just the right tang. Overrichness can get the better of Chittum, as with a roasted chicken with ham and brown butter and a groan-inspiring cream-cheese-iced hummingbird cake.
This review appeared in the September, 2008 issue of The Washingtonian.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
