Cheogajip Chicken (4300 Evergreen La., Annandale, 703-941-1506; 13814 Braddock Rd., Centreville, 703-815-8744; 3250 Old Lee Hwy., Fairfax, 703-273-4499) is Korea’s version of KFC, but it’s not quite fast food—the fried-to-order meals take about 20 minutes to cook, and most customers call ahead. Airy-battered whole birds ($13.99 to $15.99) hacked into bite-size pieces come in every heat level and could feed a family of four. The plain version arrives with a you-control-the-spice dipper of salt, pepper, and sesame seeds, while the hot style is doused in tasty but incendiary sauce.
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