Sometimes nothing but fried chicken on the bone will do. The wings at Oohs & Aahs (1005 U St., NW; 202-667-7142)—$13.95 for a heaping platter with two sides—are pure Southern comfort, with peppery islands of crunch sheathing moist, tender meat. Sides ($2.50 to $4.50) are dead-on, too: cinnamony candied sweet potatoes, vinegary collards, and potato salad with a jolt of hot mustard.
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