Nearly as memorable was the offering from the Peking Gourmet Inn (6029 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church; 703-671-8088), a longtime favorite of the Bush family. Takeout is the way to go here—even with a reservation you can count on an hourlong wait for table service. The meaty duck ($38) survived the car trip nicely. The sticky, oversize pancakes, alas, tasted mass-produced.
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