Dirt Cheap Eats 2008: El Tapatio

El Tapatio (4309 Kenilworth Ave., Bladensburg; 301-403-8882). Generous plates and a jukebox with Latin American hits make this Little Mexico canteen popular with Latinos yearning for the flavors of home. Most dishes taste authentic, and because the tortillas are made in-house, tacos such as the pork carnitas or chorizo ($2.25 each) are reliably good.

More-substantial picks include huevos rancheros with green-chili sauce ($7.99); chilaquiles, a mound of tortillas torn into strips and layered with cheese and a fried egg ($8.99); and fat tortas, sandwiches stuffed with breaded chicken, braised pork, or beef steeped in beer ($5.75). You can take a little comfort home, too—a pack of six tortillas is $1.50. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

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