Cuisine: Chef John Manolatos, who took over from founding chef/owner Ann Cashion, has pumped up the menu of seasonal American cooking with robust comfort plates and Greek accents. The result: food that’s more homey than polished but rewarding just the same.
Mood: The oxblood-red dining room wraps around a cozy bar and is a destination for thirtysomethings on dates.
Best for: Intense conversations; double dates; a meal at the bar.
Best dishes: Creamy bone marrow with mâche and capers; spinach-and-dodonis-feta tart; roasted garlic-scented lamb chops with turnip gratin; house-cured ham with vinegary collards; cream-filled house-made doughnuts, hot from the fryer, with a demitasse of hot chocolate and handcrafted marshmallows; pear clafouti with caramelized crust.
Insider tips: The three-course Sunday-night family dinner for two ($80) is a wallet-friendly option, as is a new late-night (midnight to 2 am) bar menu with the likes of pork carnitas and crispy lamb ribs.
Service: ••½
Open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate to expensive.
See all of 2009's 100 Best Restaurant
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
