Cuisine: Big-night-out classics are reliably done, as they have been for decades. This is the place to go when you’re weary of fusion and long for no-tricks cooking.
Mood: Black lacquer paneling, tuxedoed waiters, and a jazz duo Monday through Saturday nights give the place a supper-club feel.
Best for: Anyone after a big-time, beef-laden night out.
Best dishes: Classic oysters Rockefeller; roasted prime rib; crab imperial; crab cake; bone-in rib eye; crispy potato skins with zippy horseradish sauce; sautéed squash and zucchini; retro pink strawberries Romanoff.
Insider tips: The three-course lunch for $24.95—starter, entrée with two sides, and dessert—is a very good deal. Bonus: Ties and jackets for men, required at dinner, are optional at lunch.
Service: •••
Open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner. Expensive to very expensive.
See all of 2009's 100 Best Restaurant
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
