The Needle: Tai Shan

Beyond the sushi specials and the halfhearted Chinese-American staples, there’s an authentic Chinese restaurant, one of the best in Montgomery County. Also one of the most comfortable, with padded booths set down in a spacious dining room festooned with red lanterns. A tureen-size bowl of corn soup and a dish of house-pickled cucumbers with slivers of garlic and finger peppers get a meal off to a strong start. From there, look to a plate of fried pork chops doused with spiced salt and a greaseless stir-fry of shredded chicken with hot green peppers and leeks. On weekends, the Shanghai-style dim sum served from 11:30 to 2:30 is excellent.

-August 2009 

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