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100 Best Restaurants 2010: Hook [CLOSED]

No. 81: Hook

Cuisine: Chef Jonathan Seningen turns out an ever-changing, all-over-the-map roster of seafood that encompasses the au courant (a crudo of mahi mahi with pickled jalapeño) and the enduring (fish and chips). Meat lovers might want to look elsewhere—there’s only one non-fish entrée on the menu—but seafood fanciers will smile. Every fish is sustainably caught; think Arctic char, not Atlantic salmon.

Mood: The softly lit, minimalist dining room has turned into something of a weeknight clubhouse for Georgetown couples and families. On weekends, tables are filled by a snappily dressed crowd of thirtysomethings and internationals.

Best for: A quiet date or dinner; brunch.

Best dishes: The menu changes daily, but look for a trio of smoked fishes—salmon, mackerel, and bluefish; oysters three ways; beet salad with pistachios and goat cheese; gingery tuna tartare; tempura-fried pufferfish with piquant cilantro sauce for dipping; whole grilled Greek dorade with olives and chimichurri; lingonberry linzertorte with Taleggio ice cream; butterscotch tart.

Insider tips: Pastry chef Heather Chittum is a top talent; even if you’re not having a meal, you can graze on her sweets at the bar.

Service: ••

Open Monday for dinner, Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. Expensive.

See all of 2010's 100 Best Restaurants

Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.