Takeout meals seldom approach the quality you’d find in a restaurant, and we don’t burden them with that expectation—so long as they’re cheap and fast. This carryout, around the corner from its bustling parent, Liberty Tavern, is a wonderful exception. It comes through with fast and surprisingly good cooking. Rarely have we enjoyed a takeout meal more than a recent one featuring a satisfying roasted-parsnip soup, a near-virtuosic bollito misto with luscious slabs of pork belly, and a couple of first-rate cakes, including a stellar German chocolate. A container of hand-cut fries was still crispy a half hour later.
This article appeared in the April, 2010 issue of The Washingtonian.