Food

The Needle: Liberty to Go

Takeout meals seldom approach the quality you’d find in a restaurant, and we don’t burden them with that expectation—so long as they’re cheap and fast. This carryout, around the corner from its bustling parent, Liberty Tavern, is a wonderful exception. It comes through with fast and surprisingly good cooking. Rarely have we enjoyed a takeout meal more than a recent one featuring a satisfying roasted-parsnip soup, a near-virtuosic bollito misto with luscious slabs of pork belly, and a couple of first-rate cakes, including a stellar German chocolate. A container of hand-cut fries was still crispy a half hour later.

This article appeared in the April, 2010 issue of The Washingtonian.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.