At its best, Sudhir Seth’s Indian dining room in Bethesda is a celebration of the sophistication and variety of the subcontinent’s regional cuisines as well as a reminder that well-spiced cooking need not be scorching to be rewarding. But a recent meal showed the place operating below that ideal, with thin curries, tougher-than-usual meats, and muted saucing. The notable exception: the excellent pickle plate, a vivid display of what this veteran kitchen is capable of.
This article appeared in the April, 2010 issue of The Washingtonian.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
