As it enters its second decade, perhaps it’s time to stop thinking of this clattering cafe as a pizzeria and start seeing it for what it is: the best Italian restaurant for the price in DC.
The Neapolitan-style pies can be wonderful–lightly blistered crusts adorned with a perfect tomato sauce and half moons of fresh mozzarella–but you could also make a glorious meal of nothing but a salad (it’s taken seriously here) and a few of what the menu calls “little things.” Seldom will you find two- and three-bite dishes of such shimmering simplicity, from a crock of tender meatballs to delicate salt-cod croquettes to crunchy bruschetta with sweet tomatoes.
The dessert menu is small but includes the best ice cream in DC (a sumptuous vanilla) and excellent filled-to-order cannoli.
Also good: Calabrese pizza, with anchovies and olives; Norcia pizza, with salami and grilled peppers; tomato-and-ricotta-stuffed pizza; spring radishes with butter; orange-and-olive salad; doughnuts (weekend mornings).
Open Monday for dinner, Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner.