Although this drab cafe bills itself as a kebab house, the skewers aren’t the most interesting things to order. What makes it stand above others is the meal’s accessories, including soft, flavorful naan–rolled and placed in the tandoor oven minutes after you order–and the herby green dip that comes with many dishes. Appetizers of sambosa and bulanee, perfectly fried triangles filled with beef, potato, or leeks, make for outstanding starters. For entrées, forgo the typical gyro and try one of the stews or rice dishes, such as the excellent qabili palow, a plate of fall-apart chunks of lamb smothered in brown rice with carrot shreds and raisins, and the addictive dal chalaw, a curried lentil stew that begs for a swipe with that wonderful bread.
Also good: Aushak and mantu dumplings; lamb kebab with a poached egg; side of eggplant; mango lassi; cardamom tea.
Open daily for lunch and dinner.