Cheap Eats 2011: Sundevich

From the duo behind Seasonal Pantry–a market that sells house-made charcuterie and pantry items by day and hosts chef’s-table dinners at night–this tiny sandwich shop in the alley behind it is a big plus for DC’s Shaw neighborhood and for anyone who likes a well-crafted sub. (Disclosure: The consulting chef dates a Washingtonian food critic, who had no role in the selection or review of the shop.)

The messy but delicious Kingston, filled with chicken simmered in jerk seasoning and topped with pineapple salsa, is a favorite. The Shiraz–slabs of long-simmered beef tongue slathered with whole-grain mustard–evokes a great corned-beef sandwich. Hummus is nutty, creamy, and rich with roasted garlic. It’s served with baguette ends–a clever way to use the heels trimmed off each sandwich.

Also good: The Athens, a souvlaki-inspired lamb sandwich; the Isfahan, a spinach-soufflé sandwich; the Beirut, skirt steak with vinegary veggies; the Istanbul, a lamb-and-beef skewer with yogurt sauce; spinach salad with goat cheese; cumin-and-lentil salad; vanilla-yogurt parfait.

Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner.

Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.