David Guas, the former executive pastry chef of PassionFish and Acadiana and frequent Today show guest, could have gone any number of directions when he struck out on his own last year. He’s kept his sights small, opening this order-at-the-counter cafe specializing in the big, brawny flavors of his native New Orleans. But narrowing his focus hasn’t meant sacrificing his standards. The produce is high-quality and often local, and if Guas can’t make something to his specifications, he gets it from a friend–the standout hot dogs are from charcuterie maker Jamie Stachowski.
One measure of the restaurant’s excellence is that the veggie sandwich is one of the best things on a menu that abounds in bacon and pork.
Also good: Shrimp with green-onion rémoulade; gumbo; turkey-meatball sandwich; crawfish pot pie; crawfish étouffée (Wednesday evening only); Oreo-inspired Dat-O cookies; pralines.
Open Monday through Saturday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Sunday for breakfast all day and lunch.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Andrew Beaujon joined Washingtonian in late 2014. He was previously with the Poynter Institute, TBD.com, and Washington City Paper. He lives in Del Ray.
