“East meets West” is typically shorthand for a restaurant that blends Asian flavors and ingredients with American-style presentation, often to stylish effect. At this Koreatown anomaly–a slick-looking sports bar filled with Beatles memorabilia–the East/West mash-up turns up such curiosities as kimchee quesadillas and tacos stuffed with galbi (marinated short ribs).
Panchan is nowhere in evidence–the traditional Korean menu has given way to a small-plates format. The dabblings in Tex-Mex might raise eyebrows among traditionalists, but they’re the least interesting aspect of the menu.
There are dishes that wouldn’t be out of place in a bistro, including a Frenchified rendition of galbi, in which a sweetly marinated short rib is accented with glazed carrots and pearl onions; Korean classics such as mandu, made-from-scratch dumplings built on gossamer-light wrappers that crunch when they’re deep-fried; and bar snacks including free-range chicken wings cooked to order and glazed with red-pepper sauce. All surpass expectations.
Also good: Buckwheat noodles with pickled cucumbers, radishes, and hard-boiled egg; spicy chicken stew; short-rib bibim bap, a hot stone bowl full of rice, veggies, grilled meat, and a fried egg.
Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Andrew Beaujon joined Washingtonian in late 2014. He was previously with the Poynter Institute, TBD.com, and Washington City Paper. He lives in Del Ray.
