Food

Cheap Eats 2011: El Rinconcito II

Among the area’s many Salva-Mex restaurants, these cafes stand out for excellent pupusas and strong spicing. As with most of the hybrid Central American menus, skip the Mexican (quesadillas, tacos, burritos) and American (subs, hamburgers) and zero in on the boquitas (appetizers) and house specialties.

In the former, you’ll find corn tamales–equally good steamed and fluffy or deep-fried and crispy–and fried plantains. Among the house specialities are well-seasoned steaks that come plain or with a variety of dressings–the carne de salpicón has an eye-watering, chili-laced topping.

At the 11th Street original–little more than four tables and a bar–be prepared to recall your high-school Spanish.

Also good: Cheese and black-bean pupusas; yuca, fried and topped with pork and a vinegary slaw; carne desilada, a platter of shredded beef, avocado, rice, and beans.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.