Food

100 Best Restaurants 2012: Bistro Provence

From soulful bistros to high-gloss steakhouses, there's lots of good eating in DC, Maryland, and Virginia

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When Yannick Cam is on, culinary nirvana ensues. After a rocky ride helming several DC restaurants, Cam has settled into a rhythm at his Bethesda bistro, which nods in the sun-kissed direction of southern France.

With its Provençal linens, yellow walls, and tables jammed side by side–this isn’t the place to divulge state secrets–the dining room feels very French. Taking a spot in the back offers the advantage of overlooking the open kitchen, where Cam is visible and sometimes chats with diners.

What to get: Baby squid with wild mushrooms; clams stuffed with spinach, walnuts, and onion confit; bouillabaisse with scallops and sea bass; hanger steak; roasted-pineapple baba au rhum; lemon galette.

Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. Expensive.

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