Food

100 Best Restaurants 2012: Corduroy

From soulful bistros to high-gloss steakhouses, there's lots of good eating in DC, Maryland, and Virginia

_

This restaurant, once hidden in a downtown DC Sheraton, is now only somewhat hidden on a quiet block in Shaw near the Washington Convention Center. Inside, the rowhouse exudes a quiet sophistication–there’s no music, the dining room tends to be hushed, and servers are on the serious side.

It’s a fitting setting for Tom Power’s cooking, which is similarly free of flash. He has the confidence to be straightforward–unusual at a time when many chefs concoct dishes that sound like science experiments–putting out a simple, beautifully roasted capon and the same chocolate-banana tart he’s been making for years. Surprises reveal themselves slowly. The best examples are his complexly layered soups. If we see one on the menu, we order it. The $65 five-course tasting menu is an excellent value.

What to get: Beet salad with goat cheese; cauliflower-and-Parmesan soup; rare tuna with seaweed salad and sushi rice; scallops in any preparation; antelope with chestnut purée; chocolate sabayon, a baked chocolate dessert somewhere between custard and a soufflé.

Open Monday through Saturday for dinner. Expensive.

Get Our “Brunches This Weekend” Newsletter

The best breakfasts and brunches to try every weekend, plus our most popular food stories of the week.

Or, see all of our newsletters. By signing up, you agree to our terms.
Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.