Dare to order lobster poutine at this shanty-style restaurant and you’ll be richly rewarded. Lobster gravy and gooey fontina top waffle fries in a dish that sounds like it shouldn’t work but does. Pace yourself—the tricky part of eating at this suburban fish house, owned by Jeff Heineman from the neighboring wine bar Grapeseed, is not to fill up too fast. Simple lobster rolls—warm with butter or cold with mayo—are a must, if only to see which camp you fall into (we’re on team mayo). Fried whole belly clams boast the perfect mixture of fatty crunch and brininess. The only thing that deserves to be overlooked? The healthy stuff. Skip ho-hum salads and worry about calorie counts at your next meal.
Also good: Clam chowder; fish and chips; fried calamari.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
