Food

Cheap Eats 2012: Cosmopolitan Grill

Cevapcici sandwich at Cosmopolitan Grill. Photograph by Scott Suchman.
Cevapcici sandwich at Cosmopolitan Grill. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

Cheap Eats 2012

It may be billed as Balkan and German, but the cuisine at this
homey Euro-style place comes by way of Bosnia, from which owners Ivica and
Amela Svalina hail.

Try the ćevapčići—stubby beef sausages—solo or tucked
into a round of the soft, crusty bread that’s baked daily. Ajvar,
a smoky relish of red pepper, eggplant, and garlic, adds a fiery zip,
while sour cream counters the heat. Call a day in advance and you can
place an order for a half dozen or more borek, made with
hand-rolled phyllo dough and such fillings as feta or spinach.

On the German side, there are veal dishes including a nicely
breaded Wiener schnitzel and jaeger schnitzel blanketed with
mushroom-cream sauce.

Also good: Grilled whole trout with lemon and
garlic; Bosnian burger marinated in red-onion juice; kempika,
pastry layered with a panna-cotta-like cream; Turkish coffee made the
traditional way, in a long-handled copper carafe over a fire.

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