Food

Cheap Eats 2012: Cosmopolitan Grill

Cevapcici sandwich at Cosmopolitan Grill. Photograph by Scott Suchman

Cheap Eats 2012

It may be billed as Balkan and German, but the cuisine at this
homey Euro-style place comes by way of Bosnia, from which owners Ivica and
Amela Svalina hail.

Try the ćevapčići—stubby beef sausages—solo or tucked
into a round of the soft, crusty bread that’s baked daily. Ajvar,
a smoky relish of red pepper, eggplant, and garlic, adds a fiery zip,
while sour cream counters the heat. Call a day in advance and you can
place an order for a half dozen or more borek, made with
hand-rolled phyllo dough and such fillings as feta or spinach.

On the German side, there are veal dishes including a nicely
breaded Wiener schnitzel and jaeger schnitzel blanketed with
mushroom-cream sauce.

Also good: Grilled whole trout with lemon and
garlic; Bosnian burger marinated in red-onion juice; kempika,
pastry layered with a panna-cotta-like cream; Turkish coffee made the
traditional way, in a long-handled copper carafe over a fire.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.

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