Why do we consider Ravi the king of the area’s kebab houses?
Not just because it’s good—there are plenty of good kebab houses. But when
we think of the Platonic ideal of kebabs—distinctive and assertive
spicing, delicate exterior char, tender juiciness within— it’s Ravi that
leaps to mind. Also because its accoutrements are better than most,
probably because they don’t taste like accoutrements. The rice is always
hot, light, and fluffy, the crunchy-chewy disks of naan are baked
to order, and the chana masala, a slow-simmered stew of
chickpeas, onions, and garlic, is a marvel—so good we’re almost tempted to
bypass the meat altogether. Almost.
Also good: Seekh kebab; bone-in
chicken kebab; lamb-brain karahi.