Gilded tapestries, creamy walls, and gently attentive service create a tranquil atmosphere in which to enjoy a flaky samosa or crunchy fermented-tea-leaf salad. We delighted in the fragrant coconut rice with chicken curry—the fruit is more subtle than in most Thai dishes, and the texture recalls Indian curries. Tangy Asian eggplant in a sticky brown sauce and stir-fried beef with sweet basil woke us from our reverie with a bright slap of spiciness.
Also good: Burmese ginger salad; fried appetizer sampler with tempura shrimp and squash, chickpea fritters, and veggie samosas.