There’s a lot to love at Frank Linn’s Kensington pizzeria: the twinkly patio stacked with chopped wood, wine on tap, simple but lovely salads—and most of all, the pizza.
Linn got plenty of practice toting his mobile pizza oven around to Maryland farmers markets over the last few years, and his pies are delicious. They’re Neapolitan-ish—cooked in a 700-degree wood-fired oven—but not as delicate (or sopping-wet) as their Italian-style counterparts can be.
The crust has great char and chew. We could eat it without any accoutrements at all. Still, it holds up well to a thick smear of zesty tomato sauce with coins of pepperoni and a generous handful of mozzarella.
The standout pie is the Hot Mess, a sauceless round layered with intensely smoky bacon (you’ll see it curing behind the bar), pickled jalapeños that offer plenty of heat, super-sweet caramelized onions, and a gooey mix of Gruyère, mozz, and Romano that mellows the other ingredients.e
This article appears in our November 2014 issue of Washingtonian.