Owner Scot Harlan and chef de cuisine Pierre Saussy may have come together under renowned New York chef David Bouley, but there’s nothing formal about their Clarendon restaurant, where most of the beer arrives in cans, chatty servers sport black T-shirts, and Wet-Naps accompany a hulking stack of buffalo ribs.
The meat—actually pork ribs slicked with fiery Buffalo sauce and blue-cheese dressing—is one of the many reasons to venture here and get your hands messy. Another: the eclectic menu, a mash-up of French (a soulful bouillabaisse), Southern (crisp-fried pork shanks with grits), and “other” (tostadas or Kung Pao sweetbreads, anyone?). Dishes tend toward the rich, but don’t skip dessert. Harlan, a pastry chef by training, makes a terrific peanut-butter-brownie sundae.
- Snails and mushrooms on toast
- Steak tartare with potato chips
- Cornbread with maple butter
- Carrot cake