“Play with your food” seems to be the mantra at this Clarendon restaurant tricked out with concrete and brightly colored casserole pots. Many of the exuberant Southern-meets-French-or-Latino dishes are best eaten with your hands. Wedges of custardy cornbread, steamy in their iron skillet, are waiting to be dipped in maple butter. Buffalo ribs get swiped in rich blue-cheese sauce. And a ramekin of snails and mushrooms arrives with toast for sopping the juices. If you’re missing your knife and fork, a good New York strip with marrow butter and a crispy pork shank with plantains can get you reacquainted.
Don’t miss: Fried shrimp with spicy mayo; pig tostada; chicken pot pie; tuna toast with red-pepper rémoulade; bacon cheeseburger; mac and cheese; fried chicken with biscuits; huevos rancheros with pulled pork; pie of the day; peppermint-bark roulade.