With the arrival of Kyoo Eom, who joins the kitchen after a long stint at 2941, this modish Kimpton hotel restaurant undertakes yet another reinvention. The previous chef went for Southern flavors; his predecessor was an advocate of local, seasonal American cooking. Eom is a Francophile, with a love of the laborious, old-school preparations that should never go out of fashion (though, sadly, they have).
Putting vol-au-vent, a delicate puff pastry laden with butter-rich sauce, on the menu in summer was a mistake, but the fact that Eom is attempting the dish at all speaks to his dedication to classical virtues (and we’d be remiss not to point out that the vol-au-vent itself was pretty terrific). Even in this charcuterie-laden age, you seldom find a chef taking on the painstaking task of producing a ballotine of pheasant.
It’s still early in his tenure, but so far the thing to do is to front-load your meal with these and other starters. (Main courses have been up and down.) The pastry chef, Casto Unson, is new, too, and a talent; his texturally intricate pumpkin profiterole is as delicious as it is ingenious.
- Crispy duck ravioli
- Lamb tarte flambé
- Salmon with ginger beurre blanc
- Roasted duck breast with barley, farro, and quinoa
- Truffle frites